On the East Coast, gangsters of the 1930s and 1940s where inspiration for members of the hip hop community. The 1983 remake of Scarface, became popular in hip hop. Many rappers put aside gang-inspired clothing for more of a classic gangster fashion. Such as silk shirts, alligator-skin shoes (gators), double-breasted suits, and bowler hats.
Bowler hat
Silk shirt
Double-breasted suit
Alligator shoes
This look transcended into the R&B world in the mid-90s when Jodeci first came onto the scene. They were crooners but with more of a sexual and edgy look. With the bad boy attitude along with wearing gangster style clothes and being an R&B group they appealed to both women and men. Jodeci were particularly known for their baggy clothing, symbolizing hand me downs from an older relative who is of a bigger build as a sign of toughness.
Jodeci
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On the East Coast a term coined by Sean Combs, who was responsible for Jodeci's look called "ghetto fabulous" was on the rise.
One of the most prominent brand for sportswear in the 1990s was Tommy Hilfiger. Calvin Klein, DKNY, Polo Ralph Lauren, and Nautica was also popular. Snoop Doggy Dogg wore a Hilfiger sweatshirt during an appearance on Saturday Night Live. By the next day it was sold out of New York City stores. Due to Hilfiger's perceived waspiness, it became very popular. Hilfiger was seen as aspirational and exclusive. Hilfiger also courted the new hip hop market. Black models were featured prominently in the company's advertising campaigns. Rappers like Puffy and Coolio walked during Hilfiger's runway shows.
Snoop Doggy Dogg in Tommy Hilfiger
Rapper Foxy Brown in a Calvin Klein Ad
Polo Ralph Lauren
Rapper Camron in Nautica
Karl Kani was the first to set the trend of combining hip hop with fashion. Karl began a whole new fashion movement and many designers followed in his footsteps.
Karl Kani
Rappers Notorious B.I.G and Naz in Kani Wear
Other brands such as Jordan, Nike, Adidas and many others also capitalized on the market for urban street wear.
