Did the weather foretell what we'd see on the runway last night?
The heavens opened up above PSFW's show on day 2, blanketing Lahore with rain. After fashionable people hopped, skipped and jumped across puddles to make their way inside the venue they were presented with collections that mirrored meteorological conditions: dark, dramatic statements by Ali Xeeshan, sequins that flashed like lightning by Karma. Against this background it was unsurprising when some collections floundered, even though we'd held onto our best hopes that they wouldn't.
Nomi Ansari
Nomi Ansari kicked off the night with 'Joyride,' which, judging by the previews, promised to be a riot of colour and vibrant prints.
Short, bright peplum dresses opened the show, setting the tone for what followed: kitschy prints featuring everything from spectacle-wearing puppies to scooters, applique on denim.
Nomi Ansari sent down models clad in kitschy prints
Surprisingly, what worked best in the entire collection was the menswear. Nomi dressed the men in blazers and, occasionally, matching shirts or waistcoats, that were cut close to the body and tailored very well, which added an edge of sophistication to what would otherwise have been an over-the-top outfit. A slim denim-on-denim look also worked well. The look was mechanic-chic -- instead of oil splatters you had fun applique.
The menswear was the highlight of Nomi's collection
On the women, a high-waisted skirt was a long-sleeved purple top's saving grace and sleeveless blue sheath dress stood out. If you picked apart each look you'd be able to find at least one item that you could incorporate into your wardrobe.
The collection's showstoppers were Nomi's signature lenghas worn atop voluminous can-can skirts. Definitely something we'll see at mehndis in the coming months.
Nomi stuck to his signature voluminuous lenghas for the showstopper
Ali Xeeshan
Ali Xeeshan opened his 'Voodoo Collection' with a dark, cryptic short video starring himself along with Rabia Butt, Hasnain Lehri and more.
Next came piece in muted tones: lots of black, grey and white with pops of neon green. An intricate black and white print repeated itself in several items. You could spot sportswear's influence peeping through. Models wore white sneakers in the few instances they weren't wearing black heels (or walking the ramp barefoot). Jog-pants and embellished sweatshirts made appearances too.
In Voodoo Collection, Ali Xeeshan created drama in a monochrome palette
This tight colour scheme tied together pieces that wouldn't necessarily have cohered otherwise, like long military-style coats on the men that rubbed shoulders with fully sequined silver dresses on the women, and for this the designer deserves a nod. These sequined dresses were a big win, particularly the slouchy, long-length gown on Rabia Butt.
Standout pieces from the collection
Ali Xeeshan brought his signature drama to the ramp by resting lightweight frames of horses and ships on models' shoulders as a showstopper. While this didn't add much to the collection by way of styling or sartorial savvy it was a welcome statement and conversation piece, much like his uni-horned headgear.
Ali Xeeshan's showstoppers sported lightweight frames of horses and ships
Sania Maskatiya
Sania Maskatiya's most recent runway collection featured heavily structured tops in solid colours and was a hit in terms of styling and cohesion.
Sania Maskatiya introduced feminine flutter to last year's boxy silhouettes
Last night's showcase, titled ‘Décorer,’ retained aspects of that boxiness even as it added more traditionally 'feminine' flutter to the mix via trailing asymmetrical tops, flowy bootcut pants and draped dhoti pants.
Standout looks from 'Décorer'
Sania's attention to detail shone here. High-low shirts were impeccably lined in black and white fabric, meaning that the inside of a top was often just as eye-catching as the outside. Stand-out pieces included a jacket lined in white over dhoti pants worn by Amna Babar and a lime green asymmetrical shirt that topped simple white pants.
Mahgul
Known as a designer who marries precise detailing with fresh, youthful cuts Mahgul more than exceeded expectations last night. She showed a collection titled 'The Indus Society' from her ORO line that appeared to draw inspiration from varied sources: fierce women, water and associated motifs, sportswear.
What kept the collection from appearing disjointed was that Mahgul presented her looks in sets -- the first few looks were very modern nomad, grounded by decorated white sneakers and backpacks and large totes, whereas the looks that followed were more feminine.
Mahgul scored major points with the carefully considered accessories
Mahgul's collection was a visual treat. Every element she presented was considered, from the shoes (notable: a pair of bright lace-up sandals that extended up the calf) to the bags (backpacks, large totes with motifs on them, a clutch shaped like a fish). She's worked with Zohra Rahman on the jewellery too, which was incredibly detailed seen up close but unfortunately not very visible on the ramp given the its vastness.
Mahgul's worked jog-pants stood out
Stand-out pieces included her worked jog-pants, a quilted waistcoat and backless tops anchored in place by nothing more than a decorative fish-bone climbing up the spine.
All in all it was a collection that blew other presentations by more experienced designers out of the water.
Nickie Nina
Duo Nickie and Nina presented a collection influenced by matadors, and of course the colour of the day was a deep plum.
The matador-inspired collection left much to be desired
Known for their heavily worked formal wear, the team at Nickie Nina struggled to present wearable, interesting pret. With an emphasis on heavy, thick embroidery, floral motifs and sheer fabrics the collection didn't bring any innovation to the table.
Karma Pink
The night ended on a high note as Maheen Kardar's Karma revived Studio 54.
Bling dominated Karma Pink's collection
Flash and bling were abound. Three stand-out looks in sequins opened the show and a sweatshirt honouring David Bowie made sure no one missed the rock n roll mood dominating the showcase.
